Aging smoky puerh

One of the intentionally aged teas, Pu-Erh has a loyal following.


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Apr 14th, '09, 17:58
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by thanks » Apr 14th, '09, 17:58

Hop's info on Zhai Zhi Po

"The mao cha from the Zhai Zhi Po region are different from the more popular and more known big-leaf tea trees that are found in Yunnan in that the leaves are considerably smaller due to the region's high elevation. As a result, the pu-erh industry has appropriately labeled these trees as "small-leaf arbor".

Although in my opinion, this mao cha makes great pu-erh its use is not without protest. In fact, there are on-going debates within the pu-erh community as to whether the Zhai Zhi Po can truly be considered pu-erh as it is not composed of big broad leaf type tea leaves. I encourage you to make your own judgment :)"


Personally I've had a 2006 xiao beeng of Nan Jian's Zhai Zhi Po and it's still pretty smoky. Not nearly as smoky as when I first purchased it a few years ago, mind you, but definitely smoky.

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Apr 14th, '09, 18:34
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by Drax » Apr 14th, '09, 18:34

Huh, very interesting. So it could just be from the Zhai Zhi Po region, and not necessarily talking about a specific Nan Jian version. Good to know!

If I get some time, I suppose separating the smoky ones might not be such a bad idea. . .

Apr 16th, '09, 07:11
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Smokey Puer

by zhi zheng » Apr 16th, '09, 07:11

It's worth differentiating smokiness (in Chinese yan wei) from a kind of smokey-burned flavour (hu wei). They arise for different reasons;

Smokiness is most likely because of oven drying, with the possible implication that it's summer not spring tea.

As a sideline, if there large variations in leaf colour, it is likely because the tea is mixed/blended. Most probably from different seasons and/or years. It's not uncommon (with cheaper teas?) to mix in some summer tea with spring or autumn leaves and these very likely will have been oven dried.

Hu wei is to do with frying skills - the tea is over-fried. This kind of smokiness is often accompanied by a slight bitterness which is different from the natural bitterness of tea.

As others have said, the smokiness should abate over time, but don't hold your breath. The burned-smokiness is less likely to subside. This year there seems to be a fair bit of this kind of tea around, most likely due to a particularly dry spring and an accordingly low moisture content in the fresh leaves - so more tea makers than usual perhaps are mis-judging the frying.

In any case, the tea needs to be stored in an open ventilated place or possibly an earthenware jar to stand any chance of improvement.

On the subject of variety, it's a little messy; as many people know, the Yunnan Government has stated that Puer tea should be made from daye/Broad leaf varietal, but many areas, noteably Jing Mai Shan have what is known as zhong xiao ye - mid-small leaf variety, which could be considered a sub-variety of daye although there seems to be no such official categorization. Apparently no one has said this is not Puer.

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Apr 16th, '09, 11:55
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by Salsero » Apr 16th, '09, 11:55

Welcome, zhi zheng, and thanks for the great information. I take it you are an American living in Jinghong? And apparently a valuable resource for those of us interested in Puerh. Hope to see lots more of you!

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Apr 16th, '09, 13:14
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by tony shlongini » Apr 16th, '09, 13:14

What a great first post, zhi sheng. I look forward to more.

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Apr 16th, '09, 18:04
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by Drax » Apr 16th, '09, 18:04

Yes, very interesting!

I'm always looking for samples of what people would call "a good example of <flavor>."

So I would be interested in a good example of bad pan-frying skills to know what that taste is like, and to compare to the oven-smokiness.

I'm still not convinced that I've pegged that flavor correctly as smoky, I have to admit. But it seemed awfully similar to hickory to me...

Apr 17th, '09, 07:49
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Smokey Puer

by zhi zheng » Apr 17th, '09, 07:49

Thank you all for a very warm reception!

Hu wei. At it's worst, it's a little reminiscent of the cabbage that you put on to boil and subsequently forgot about until the smell wafted out from the kitchen. It's not usually that bad, but that's how it feels to me. It's also often got a slight bitterness that I mentioned before. It's typically a flavour that does not reduce after several steepings.

Smokiness on the other hand I find is sometimes acceptable if it's a very, very faint 'now it's there' now it's not' kind of experience - and maybe only present in the first couple of steepings.

Bad smokiness, at the risk of sounding exaggerated is more 'jamon de serrano' than burned cabbage.

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