Shattered yixing vessel...

[Drax]

So, I ordered this yixing jig saw puzzle...



Just kidding.

Any recommendations on attempts to piece this thing back together? I figured that I might as well try....

And most importantly, anything that would work well in larger amounts....?

[debunix]

no sensible suggestions on salvage, just commiseration on your loss.

[Abracadaver!]

Holy hell, that's the most totaled teapot I've ever seen.

Tingjunkie, what's your take?

[tingjunkie]

Holy hell, that's the most totaled teapot I've ever seen.

Tingjunkie, what's your take?

You'd have a better chance installing a flux capacitor in a DeLorean and driving at 88mph to get back to the time before the pot was broken than you do turning that pile of shards back into a useable pot.

My advice... if you can't get a refund, put the larger pieces in the bottom of a faircup to get some effect the clay would have on the tea.

[Drax]

Sorry, I should have been more explicit...! This 'vessel' is not a teapot. It's a jar. And it's not just a jar, it's a big jar. In total it probably weighs about 40 lbs, so the pieces are quite thick.

I would be using it to store tea, not brew, which is why I want to still try to salvage it (although I suppose I could use it to brew up a few gallons of Lipton, southern-style....! ).

[debunix]

That's going to be a heck of a project. You need to glue pieces accurately enough that the top will eventually be smooth and fit the lid together, and tiny inaccuracies as you glue along the way will be magnified by the end. I'd think you would need some kind of supportive form and even then it would be very iffy. I'd start with the JB Weld discussed at length in this topic.

[Drax]

I did remember the JB Weld discussions, and I managed to find some at the auto parts store, so I decided to give that a go...

So far I've got the lid pieced together (was broken in 5 pieces) and curing.

The lid pieced back together relatively well. The rest of the container, however, experienced a lot of... 'friction' after breaking, so I think the breaks have worn down a lot more. So... that will be challenging.

I wish I could give it a golden or silver color as opposed to the gray, but it'll do. So far it seems to be working well.

I'll do more throughout the week, and post here as I go. Wish me luck.

[debunix]

For some delicate repairs of other items, I've found aluminum foil to be very helpful for giving support to help keep pieces together until the adhesive hardens, but I'd be wary of that for this use as your pot is going to be so heavy that crumpled foil is likely to gradually be crushed down and permit the pieces to move as it hardens--exactly what you don't want. I'd strongly suggest some kind of more solid armature--chicken wire/hardware cloth?--to give the right support as the pieces dry.

[togei]

I have just posted a couple of videos on kintsugi on my blog. I can't say it will work, you will need a lot of patience.
Have a look see if you like, the two posts are just below my latest post on antiques.
Blog post http://davidmorrisonpike.com/blog/
Direct link to the videos although there is very little explanation in them, they plus the blog post are the most complete, #1 http://youtu.be/nSd-0AQSegE #2 http://youtu.be/mzJ5LZnlw0s
Dave

[Drax]

Wow, great posts and videos, togei, and very timely, too!

I had no idea that the gold/silver repairs had the gold/silver applied after the lacquer. Very interesting...

Hmmm, well I'd like to say "next time" I might try something like that, but I really hope that there's no next time...!

[Drax]

Hrm, togei, you now have me wondering...

Could you use the gold/silver repair material with JB Weld? Has anybody tried this?

It would seem that you're just waiting for the right time in the curing sequence to roll the gold over -- it seems when it's solid enough that it won't deform, but 'sticky' enough still that it'll accept and keep the gold material?

If so... you could avoid that whole 'rash' issue, too... (okay, granted JB Weld is not traditional, nor all-natural...)

[JBaymore]

Thanks for the posting, Dave. Good info. Sorry you "sacrificed your body" in order to share this with us all .

I might try to pick up some of the "gold paste" when I get to Japan in September. Suggestions for where/address?

Also might try this technique with "Kashew"... the synthetic non-allergenic lacquer. I too get poison ivy rash.

best,

..................john

[Drax]

Also might try this technique with "Kashew"... the synthetic non-allergenic lacquer.

Hmmm, I could have sworn that the can that he pulled the black lacquer out of said "Kashuu" (カシュウ) on the side...?

Interesting...!

[tingjunkie]

Hrm, togei, you now have me wondering...

Could you use the gold/silver repair material with JB Weld? Has anybody tried this?

Never seen this type of gold paste, and I wonder how it holds up to boiling water being poured over it time and time again.

Having done many JB Weld repairs, I can say it should theoretically work the same way the lacquer does. If I can get my hands on some gold paste, I think I will try this. Thanks togei!

[togei]

The brand I am using is Cashew brand. I looked closer at the label. It isn't 'real' as in the liquid from a tree but a 'gosei', manufactured, form. It definitely isn't non-allergenic as my arms and legs prove and the warnings on the can confirm.
The gold paste.
I can't say I remember where I ordered it from but I searched on the Internet and found some. Try this for example,
http://www.fok.jp/sale/metal01.html The price is cheaper than what I paid but it doesn't include shipping in the price.
Try putting the following into a search engine.
金修理　ペイスト or　金継ぎ or　漆金継ぎ（うるしきんつぎ)

I do think using the JBWeld would work if it is permeable to the gold application.

About wear.
I have found it holds up so far but the truth is I am still in the 'testing' mode. Traditional kintsugi is strong and holds up so I see no reason why this wouldn't.


Here are a couple of pages.
http://kintugi.sakura.ne.jp/
http://www.kintsugi.net/repair/

Dave