Broken Yixing lids

[JB-ONE]

I have a couple of broken lids. One is an EOT 90s Factory 1 and the other (the first pic) I'm not sure. Had it for more than a few years. The clay is the same color on the inside and out, but on the Factory 1, the clay inside is darker. Wondering if the 90s F1 is zisha coated with hongni or if it's just the firing.

[theredbaron]

I believe it's the firing.
I would however suggest not to break the lids - pots work a lot better with intact lids

[victoria3]

Ouch, I also recently broke a top, a very sad moment. Hoping a nano engineer designs a new non toxic glue soon. Meanwhile, I'll sadly use an ill fitting top from another pot, the color doesn't even match making me relive the moment every time. Just sad

[theredbaron]

Ouch, I also recently broke a top, a very sad moment. Hoping a nano engineer designs a new non toxic glue soon. Meanwhile, I'll sadly use an ill fitting top from another pot, the color doesn't even match making me relive the moment every time. Just sad

I would suggest:

https://www.kintsugi.repair/shop?gclid= ... 0wodXB4JYA
http://www.mejiro-japan.com/product/kintsugi-repair-kit

some time ago there was also some extensive discussion here on teachat on Kintsugi

[victoria3]

Ouch, I also recently broke a top, a very sad moment. Hoping a nano engineer designs a new non toxic glue soon. Meanwhile, I'll sadly use an ill fitting top from another pot, the color doesn't even match making me relive the moment every time. Just sad

I would suggest:

https://www.kintsugi.repair/shop?gclid= ... 0wodXB4JYA
http://www.mejiro-japan.com/product/kintsugi-repair-kit

some time ago there was also some extensive discussion here on teachat on Kintsugi

Beautiful, but I wouldn't use Kintsugi for any piece that comes in contact with hot water on a daily basis. JB weld is also very good for ceramic repair but not if it comes in contact with hot water.

[theredbaron]

Ouch, I also recently broke a top, a very sad moment. Hoping a nano engineer designs a new non toxic glue soon. Meanwhile, I'll sadly use an ill fitting top from another pot, the color doesn't even match making me relive the moment every time. Just sad

I would suggest:

https://www.kintsugi.repair/shop?gclid= ... 0wodXB4JYA
http://www.mejiro-japan.com/product/kintsugi-repair-kit

some time ago there was also some extensive discussion here on teachat on Kintsugi

Beautiful, but I wouldn't use Kintsugi for any piece that comes in contact with hot water on a daily basis. JB weld is also very good for ceramic repair but not if it comes in contact with hot water.

Well, it says safe to 120 degrees, which is well past boiling point. Japanese used it for yonks, so i would not worry

[victoria3]

Ouch, I also recently broke a top, a very sad moment. Hoping a nano engineer designs a new non toxic glue soon. Meanwhile, I'll sadly use an ill fitting top from another pot, the color doesn't even match making me relive the moment every time. Just sad

I would suggest:
https://www.kintsugi.repair/shop?gclid= ... 0wodXB4JYA
http://www.mejiro-japan.com/product/kintsugi-repair-kit
some time ago there was also some extensive discussion here on teachat on Kintsugi

Beautiful, but I wouldn't use Kintsugi for any piece that comes in contact with hot water on a daily basis. JB weld is also very good for ceramic repair but not if it comes in contact with hot water.

Well, it says safe to 120 degrees, which is well past boiling point. Japanese used it for yonks, so i would not worry

I just double checked in case something had changed regarding glues/epoxies etc coming in direct contact with hot water and so far it still is not safe. This is from a reputable ceramic restorer - "Epoxy is not food safe and will come apart at around 200 degree F (under boiling) so cooking with it is not a good idea" http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Po ... nswers.htm

[theredbaron]

I just double checked in case something had changed regarding glues/epoxies etc coming in direct contact with hot water and so far it still is not safe. This is from a reputable ceramic restorer - "Epoxy is not food safe and will come apart at around 200 degree F (under boiling) so cooking with it is not a good idea" http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Po ... nswers.htm

Urushi isn't epoxy or a glue - it's a natural sap of the lacquer tree.

[victoria3]

I just double checked in case something had changed regarding glues/epoxies etc coming in direct contact with hot water and so far it still is not safe. This is from a reputable ceramic restorer - "Epoxy is not food safe and will come apart at around 200 degree F (under boiling) so cooking with it is not a good idea" http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Po ... nswers.htm

Urushi isn't epoxy or a glue - it's a natural sap of the lacquer tree.

Yes indeed. The ceramic restorer I sited also uses urushi lacquer for kintsugi repair and states not to use for temperatures above 150F. But hey I'd love to repair my lid if I can then use it again for tea

[steanze]

Urushi is regularly used for applications in which it comes in contact with boiling water. For example, Tetsubins traditionally have two holes on the bottom due to the casting (“katamochi”), the holes are then closed with urushi lacquer mixed with iron powder (see http://hojotea.com/categ_e/tetsubin.htm).

It is of course important that the Urushi is properly cured at the right temperature and humidity to prevent leaching and possible allergic reactions to the urushiol.

[victoria3]

Urushi is regularly used for applications in which it comes in contact with boiling water. For example, Tetsubins traditionally have two holes on the bottom due to the casting (“katamochi”), the holes are then closed with urushi lacquer mixed with iron powder (see http://hojotea.com/categ_e/tetsubin.htm).

It is of course important that the Urushi is properly cured at the right temperature and humidity to prevent leaching and possible allergic reactions to the urushiol.

Interesting to know this, thanks, especially since it is inside the tetstubin.

I just got a reply back from LakesidePottery
My email: Curious as I see you also do Kintsugi repair using urushi laquer. Is this laquer not food safe? as seen in centuries old Japanese tableware. I do see you indicate not to use above 150F and not to use for food so? Thanks again, Victoria

Lakeside Reply: "The restrictions apply to Kintsugi as well. We see old Kintsugi arrives to us in bad shape for restoration done with the traditional process after being used functionally. Our process yields same visual results but more durable than the Urushi process. We stopped using Urushi some time ago due to polymer technology's better performance . It may hold up with usage for a while but eventually it will fall apart and the particles will end up in your digestive system."

So now I see they are no longer using urushi laquer.... soooo mmmmm

[aeris311]

I have a couple of broken lids. One is an EOT 90s Factory 1 and the other (the first pic) I'm not sure. Had it for more than a few years. The clay is the same color on the inside and out, but on the Factory 1, the clay inside is darker. Wondering if the 90s F1 is zisha coated with hongni or if it's just the firing.

I dropped the lid to my first jian shui pot as I was taking it to the kitchen to begin it's clean & seasoning. It was a pretty clean break like yours. I used Dap 00688 silicone adhesive to repair it.

The visibility of the repair on the polished side depends on the lighting, if under soft indoor lighting it takes some scrutiny to notice. If you shine a cell phone flashlight at it, the seam stands out quite a bit lol. The seam is evident on the underside, so that's probably what could be expected from yixing.

BUT... The repair is standing up fantastically. I use it regularly for sheng. And as I said I hadn't even cleaned or seasoned it when I broke it; so after curing for 24 hrs or so it started off by surviving a good boiling, and a soak in a pot of hot puerh after that.

[theredbaron]

So now I see they are no longer using urushi laquer.... soooo mmmmm

To be honest - i would rather trust a technique proven over centuries by the most advanced ceramic culture on earth. But that's just me.

[JB-ONE]

I have a couple of broken lids. One is an EOT 90s Factory 1 and the other (the first pic) I'm not sure. Had it for more than a few years. The clay is the same color on the inside and out, but on the Factory 1, the clay inside is darker. Wondering if the 90s F1 is zisha coated with hongni or if it's just the firing.

I dropped the lid to my first jian shui pot as I was taking it to the kitchen to begin it's clean & seasoning. It was a pretty clean break like yours. I used Dap 00688 silicone adhesive to repair it.

The visibility of the repair on the polished side depends on the lighting, if under soft indoor lighting it takes some scrutiny to notice. If you shine a cell phone flashlight at it, the seam stands out quite a bit lol. The seam is evident on the underside, so that's probably what could be expected from yixing.

BUT... The repair is standing up fantastically. I use it regularly for sheng. And as I said I hadn't even cleaned or seasoned it when I broke it; so after curing for 24 hrs or so it started off by surviving a good boiling, and a soak in a pot of hot puerh after that.

Thanks. I appreciate that. I'm probably not going to repair it though. The first one has been broken for at least 5 years already, so 2 broken in almost 10 years I'm ok with. I'm just glad it wasn't any of the pots I use regularly.

[victoria3]

I have a couple of broken lids. One is an EOT 90s Factory 1 and the other (the first pic) I'm not sure. Had it for more than a few years. The clay is the same color on the inside and out, but on the Factory 1, the clay inside is darker. Wondering if the 90s F1 is zisha coated with hongni or if it's just the firing.

I dropped the lid to my first jian shui pot as I was taking it to the kitchen to begin it's clean & seasoning. It was a pretty clean break like yours. I used Dap 00688 silicone adhesive to repair it.

The visibility of the repair on the polished side depends on the lighting, if under soft indoor lighting it takes some scrutiny to notice. If you shine a cell phone flashlight at it, the seam stands out quite a bit lol. The seam is evident on the underside, so that's probably what could be expected from yixing.

BUT... The repair is standing up fantastically. I use it regularly for sheng. And as I said I hadn't even cleaned or seasoned it when I broke it; so after curing for 24 hrs or so it started off by surviving a good boiling, and a soak in a pot of hot puerh after that.

Curious, are you pouring near boiling water over pot regularly while steeping? and flash cleaning it also with near boiling water? Good to hear it has worked for you this long. I wonder if this silicone is the same type used in modern stovetop spatulas, which is supposedly non-toxic?